From Hype to Discipline: The New World of Influencer Marketing | Case Study

The rules of influencer marketing have changed.

Five years ago, the formula was simple: Identify a creator with hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of followers in your category — beauty, fashion, etc. — hand them a detailed creative brief with must-hit talking points and after a few rounds of back-and-forth, approve the post, cut the check and watch the likes roll in.

Cut to 2026, and both brands and creators have different strategies, as well as higher expectations. Influencer marketing is still an effective way to get a brand in front of a large number of new customers, but it is increasingly seen as a tool for driving conversion as much as awareness — if not more so.

“Reach plus conversion is the holy grail, and there are plenty of creators who can do both,” said Roy Peters, the senior vice president of creator management at influencer management firm The Sociable Society.

Influencer marketing is more important today than ever before. It’s a byproduct of brands following the eyeballs: Nearly two-thirds of the time consumers spend with media today is online — and oftentimes, that’s watching content that comes from creators. In 2025, ad giant WPP forecasted social media ad revenue — including creators — would hit $413 billion for the year, eclipsing traditional media.

But it’s also because the industry has gotten more sophisticated. Brands and creators alike are finding innovative ways to work with each other beyond #ad posts. Collaborations have been propelled by the development of new technologies and platforms, too, like affiliate-centred influencer monetisation company ShopMy or Agentio, an AI-powered platform that connects brands to creators for campaigns. Plus, the sheer number of creators working across a growing number of channels today — TikTok, Instagram, Substack, podcasts and more — means there’s a creator partner for just about any goal.

Businesses today must be more strategic in building their influencer marketing strategies. In practice, that means brands are investing in gifting and taking a more creative approach to affiliate marketing. They’re also finding new ways to tap the power of an influencer’s following, whether it be a product collaboration or hiring them for more than just end-stage marketing, such as involving them in product development or campaign ideation.

Creators, meanwhile, have become more comfortable pushing back on their brand partners. They’ve always known that an Instagram page filled with commercial-esque ads won’t land with their followers. They want to flex their creative muscles, rather than just collect a pay cheque. And many have recognised that no brand deal is worth sacrificing their community’s trust.

In this case study, The Business of Fashion breaks down what brands need to know about the new rules of influencer marketing, from the platforms that are producing the next generation of social media stars to the changing stakes in affiliate marketing. It includes the perspectives of several brands, including makeup label Tarte, whose elaborate influencer trips are infamous; Gen Z-favourite retailer Free People; British bag brand DeMellier; apparel label Aligne; jewellery seller Dorsey; and haircare label Crown Affair.

Every brand hoping to connect with shoppers today needs to understand the role influencers should play in their strategy.